BENNY ANDERSEN

FOUNDER OF SOROTO

The more than 30 years of experience within the company...

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FAQ

Need help finding something?

Our team is here to help you get to where you need to go — fast.

In our FAQ section, you’ll find clear answers to the questions we’re asked most often. Whether you need help with a specific product or general guidance, everything is organised to help you find what you need quickly and get back to work.

FAQS

How to mount and adjust the steel mixer arms on your SoRoTo Forced Action Mixer 40L - 120L

You need: Spanner 16

BEWARE: Do not plug in the machine, unless else is clearly stated.

Download the guide here:

On the models 80 L - 300 L it is possible to change the rubber blades; on the models 120 L - 300 L it is also possible to change the steel blades. These can simply be bolted off of the end of the mixing arms and replaced using the correct parts for your machine. Video is on its way!

Each rubber section of the rubber blades can be removed once worn beyond reasonable use by loosening the nut and bolt on the end of the mixing arm. The new replacement rubber blade can then be fitted and the nut and bolt retightened. Thanks to the way these are manufactured, as the rubber blade wears, it can be moved further down in its holder in order to maximise the lifespan of the parts.

Additional content (incl. video) is in its way!

  1. In front of the machine it says something like 100 L-30. This particular number means, that it's a SoRoTo® Forced Action Mixer, 100 L. (The "30" means that it does 30 revolutions/minute. All our forced action mixers does that).
  2. The serial no. is on the side of the motor box of the machine. The forst 2-3 cifres indicate the size of the machine.
  3. You can also choose to measure the size of the drum. See the measurements below.

You should measure the height from the bottom of the drum to the top of the top disc:

  • an older machine: approx. 42 cm to the top disc = long arms and shaft
  • a new machine: approx. 39 cm to the top disc / 41 cm incl. the top disc / the top disc is levelled with the drum edge = short arms and shaft

See the picture below:

Please clean the mixer after every use.

Remember to remove the mixer arms when cleaning, to ensure that no material gets caught between the shaft/axel and the mixer arms.

BEWARE no electrical parts get water.

Also, remember to lubricate your machine on a regular basis.

If your mixer has been miskept, and a lot of hard material is stuck in the machine, it could be an idea to use EASY HAMMER or GEL HAMMER.

Special treatment when mixing with glue/resin:

When mixing with glue or resin, you can burn or clean with very hot water.
(Beware: only use steel blades for mixing resin/glue)
Sometimes the mixer gate becomes stuck when mixing resin/glue.It can be avoided if you clean with a soft brush and some white spirit in between every mix, but if it happens, you heat the gate with a hot airgun or a blow torch. When it has softened, you should be able to remove it with a metal wall paper scraper or the like.

CLEANING A FORCED ACTION MIXER

How to clean your SoRoTo® Forced Action Mixer

The SoRoTo® Turboarm for mixing thin-flowing products is easy to mount onto the 300 L forced action mixer - and the result is a much faster mixing time. 

FYI: The Turboarm is only for mortar without aggregate.

When purchasing a SoRoTo® Forced Action Mixer you chose whether you want it delivered with steel or rubber blades. 
The standard version on the smaller models ( 40 L - 120 L) is with steel, and the larger models (200 L and 300 L) are with rubber blades as their standard - but you can get whatever you want.

The rubber blades are used for mixing product containing aggregates, such as concrete. The reason for using rubber blades for this is that they are much more flexible than the steel blades. You're saving the gears as well as the drum a lot of unneccesary toll. You should be using rubber blades for mixing aggregates of more than 8mm.

We recommend buying the standard version and additionally purchasing a complete set of mixing arms of the other kind than the standard. This way you get two machines in one - and the mixing systems can be interchanged without the use of any tools.

*The SoRoTo® Forced Action Mixer 40 L and 65-Light cannot be purchased with rubber blades.

Yes, you can! We sell many forced mixers, especially to England and Australia, for mixing resin. You should use a forced mixer with steel paddles, as the rubber paddles cannot be cleaned with chemicals or fire. It is a good idea to give the mixing vessel and paddles a wipe with alcohol and/or WD40 before mixing, so the material is easier to remove.

Further more, it is a good idea to use a stirrer to mix the 2-component adhesive before pouring it into the aggregates in the forced mixer. The outlet damper may become stuck when mixing resin. See the FAQ on maintenance and cleaning.

You need to use a forced action mixer with steel blades, since the rubber blades cannot handle cleaning with neither chemicals nor fire/heat.
It's a good idea to spray and wipe the drum and blades with either WD40 or white spirit before use. This makes it a lot easier to clean the machine afterwards.

Furthermore it is a good idea to mix the 2-component glue with an electric mixer before pouring it into the aggregates in the forced action mixer.

Example og mix: A typical 4-bag, 100kg mix of 1-5mm gravel and a 6.5-7.5kg bucket of resin will fit perfectly into a SoRoTo® 100L Forced Action Mixer.

On the older machines, the big wheels that you move the machine around on, where fastened with a split; the new ones have a bolt in stead. It is possible to purchase both splits and bolts.

On the older machines, the loading wheels (the small ones on the handle of the machine) where fastened with a starlock. The new ones have bolts in stead. It is possible to purchase loading wheels with both starlock and with bolt.

The handy SoRoTo® Dust Controller which limits the dangerous dust emitted during mixing, is easy to mount. The Dust Controller is mounted on the inside of the grid lid, where, in some cases, holes have already been drilled for it. Video guide is coming!

How to check why your forced action mixer won't start:

  • Check the cord from the wall to the machine. Are there any ruptures? Is the machine hooked up to the correct current? Also, check if the cord works with a different machine.
  • Ensure that the cord is not more than 10 m long. If you're using a cable drum, make sure the cord is completely roled out.
  • If your forced action mixer is one of the bigger ones, i.e. a 200L or a 300L forced action mixer, check the phase turner and adjust if need be.
    Adjusting of phase turner.
  • Check, that the grid lid is completely closed, and the safety switch activated. The machine will not start with an open grid lid or unactivated safety switch. 
  • If the safety switch is too loose or tight, the machine won't start either.
    Adjusting the safety switch.
    On the 65- Light, the safety switch is a straight metal piece, that shuts the machine off, when it opens. This can also be adjusted:
  • Check the thermal circuit breaker. If it is visible on the switch by the start/stop buttons, then press it in, and wait 30 sec. Then press start again.

If you have tried all of this, and it still won't start, it might be a capacitor or the whole switch that is broken. The machine should then be sent to a technician or electrician who knows about SoRoTo® machines. Talk to your local dealership.

There are several things, you should look into, if your mixer acts like that. 1. Check, that the machine is on a separate power group (230V min. 10 Amp. / 110V min. 16 Amp.) 2. Check, that the cable is a strong rubber cable of max. 10 Meters. 3. Check, that the capacitors are neither deform nor blown.

65-Light is a model developed for the craftsman who doesn't use a forced action mixer too often It has a thinner drum, different mixing arms etc. Read more under the product description of the 65-Light.

On some of the older mixers, the capacitors were mounted on the inside of the motors.

On the new mixers, the capacitors are mounted on the outside and are a little bit bigger than the old ones.

The new capacitors can however still be mounted inside an old motor, you just have to remove a little bit of the excess plastic from the bottom.

Be careful not to open it up!

It is important to note whether the machine is humming from the motor or the motor protection. If it is humming from the motor, there is something wrong with the motor. If it is humming from the motor protection, there is something wrong with the motor protection. Call Production on tel. 36 72 78 00

It is important to make a note of whether the sound comes from the motor or the switch.

If the motor makes the sound, the motor is the issue. If the switch makes noises, this is the culporate. 

Talk to your SoRoTo expert about it.

If smoke is emanating from your mixer, it most probably has one or more broken capacitors, that should be changed at once.

The mixing arms can go up for several reasons:

  • Check that the output shaft is not filled with mixing product.
  • Check that the mixer is equipped with the right mixing arms for your current purpose. Steel blades may not be used for mixing rock containing material (with rocks over the size of 8mm)

The spring pins are made to snap if, for instance, something is caught in between the shovels and the drum. This way, the drum and gears last a lot longer.

You can purchase a complete spring pin set at your local SoRoTo® dealership.

The set includes:

  • 4 pcs. spring pins (consists of 12 smaller parts)
  • Drill guide
  • 3 pcs. drills
  • 1 pc. rubber top

Other than that you need:

  • Angle grinder
  • Hammer
  • Drill

How to change the spring pins:

  1. First remove the broken spring pin(s). This is done with a angle grinder leveled with the axel. (Pic. 2). BEWARE: Make sure you leave one spring pin in, to lower the drill guide over.
  2. Lower the drill guide over a single spring pin and the axel. (Pic. 3-4).
  3. Drill new holes for the spring pins (they need new holes; do not try and drill the old pins out). Start with the 4 mm drill and then use the 8,1 mm drill (Pic. 5-6).
  4. Hammer the spring pins in as shown on pic. 7. Start with the largest part.
  5. Now you're ready to lower the mixing system over your axel with the new spring pins, and return to work.

The 10 mm. drill and rubber top is for drilling holes in old mixing arms that were made with only 2 holes for spring pins.

 

You can download the manual beneath by clicking the image.

The handling of the machine will always be talken into consideration, but if it has been handled correct, these parts are under warranty:

  • Motor
  • Gear
  • Switch
  • Relays
  • Capacitors
  • Driveshaft
  • Welding errors

Before you send it in for a warranty repair, the following things have to be in order:

The machinery has to be available. That means, it has to be clean and easy to get to. If the drum is filled with dried out material, you will most likely be charged for the clean-up, and maybe also the repair, if it is deemed as incorrect use.

Ensure that the machine has been plugged in correctly and has not been exposed to water - otherwise the machine will not be covered by the warranty

The following parts are deemed as ware parts and repair on, as well as adjustments of , these parts, will not be covered:

  • Dust Controller
  • Grid lid
  • Drum
  • Mixer gate
  • Safety grid
  • Rubber strap
  • Frame
  • Wheels
  • Bucket stand
  • Mixer arms and -shovels

HOW TO MIX THIN-FLOWING PRODUCTS

- Fill all the dry material into the mixer
- Add about 1/3 of the water while the machine runs
- Let the machine run for 2-3 minutes, until all the material is an even, moist mix
- Add the last of the water, and let the machine run in a couple of minutes until finished.

The old safety switch with push button looks like this:

It is also possible to get the rubber protection for it:

The new safety switch with swing-arm looks like this:

The old safety switch with push button looks like this:

It is also possible to get the rubber protection for it:

The new safety switch with swing-arm looks like this:

On the images below you see, respectively, the old model and the new model.

The left one is the ols thermo fuse; the right one is the new thermofuse:

It is not possible to retreive the old model any longer, but the new thermo fuse fits older machines just fine.

Among other things, you have to look into the switch board you are going to use, as well as the length of the cables.

As a rule, a machine uses 3 times the power it usually does when it's just running, when it's firing up to start.

A 300L SoRoTo Forced Action Mixer, that usually runs on 2,2kW will therefore be running on approximately 7 kW when starting up - and this should be recalculated into Amp. when figuring out which generator, you should use.

We would recommend you to talk to a rental company, who are used to combining machines with generators, in order to find the perfect solution for you.

How to remove the Turbo-arm from your 300L SoRoTo Forced Action Mixer

You need:

  • Spanner 22
  • Spanner 8

BEWARE: Do not plug in the machine, unless else is clearly stated.

1:5 Remove the safety disc

Remove the 3 small bolts form the yellow safety disc - with spanner 8.
Remove the safety disc.

2:5 Remove the turbo-arm

Remove the 2 u-bolts - with spanner 22.
Put away the turbo-arm.

3:5 Move the mid-base arm

The mid-base blade is located in between tower and drum edge.
Remove the 2 u-bolts - with spanner 22.
Mount the mid-base arm where the turbo-arm was.
Mount the u-bolts losely.
Adjust the separation bolt until the blade is 1-3 mm from the base.
Fasten the u-bolts and tighten the separation bolt.

4:5 Mount the tower-base arm

Mount the tower-base arm in the mid-base arm’s old spot.
Mount the u-bolts losely.
Adjust the separation bolt until the blade is 1-3 mm from the base and tower.
Fasten the u-bolts and the separation bolt.

5:5 Mount the safety disc

Put the safety disc on again and fasten the bolts - with spanner 8.

The degree, of course, has something to do with how light the material is that you're moving - and its shape. But you can use the below image as a rule of thumb.

Inclination

The X axe relates to the length of the conveyor belt, and the Y axe is the height.

You can mount the infeed hopper as it is shown on the image beneath, but the flexibility increases if you remove the yellow crossbar wit the chains.

If the black fittings on the sides and in the rear are on, remove them.

Place the infeed hopper on top of the standard hopper.

Mount the rear fitting. Lift up the hopper a little bit and screw in the screws halfway.

Mount the side fittings and screw them in halfway as well.

Finally you tighten all the screws to secure the infeed hopper.

If you removed the yellow cross bar in the beginning, remount it.

And now you're ready to load your belt conveyor with a wheelbarrow or a mini-excavator.

CLEANING A BELT CONVEYOR

How to clean your SoRoTo® Belt Conveyor

How to mount the feeder on your SoRoTo® Belt Conveyor

You need:

  • 8 pcs. 8mm discs
  • 8 pcs. 8 mm stainless locking nuts
  • New feeder
  • 13 spanner

BEWARE: Do not plug in the machine, unless else is clearly stated.

 

1:2 Put the feeder in place

Under the green PVC in the feeder there’s black inner rubber. Grab the inner rubber in bot sides. Hold the feeder with the backside against your stomach. 

Push the sides out and place the feeder over the back roller (not over the engine).
You might need to use a rubber hammer to get it in place. 


2:2 Bolt the feeder to the conveyor

Discs and nuts are mounted and fastened with a 13 spanner.

Check if there's a wire loose by or in the electrical boxes. If not, you need a new emergency stop.

Start with cutting the power, and then check all the connections. Check if the wiring inside the frame is OK (when changing the side battens, for instance, you might accidentally drill through one of the wires). If everything seems right, you probably need a new switch.

Check if there's a power transition to the frame. BEWARE: Do NOT open the motor up.
Talk to your local SoRoTo expert or contact our service-team here: soroto@soroto.dk

Check the machine is on a separate power group (240V min. 10 Amp. / 110V min. 16 Amp.)
Check the cable is a rubber cable of max. 10 meters
Check the capacitors are neither deform nor broken
BEWARE: If you have broken or deform capacitors, they should be exchanged immediately.

The belt must not be too tight. If it sits in such a way that it just pulls along, there is as much power as possible available in the engine.

Video tutorial is on the way!

The serial no. on a SoRoTo®belt conveyor is located behind the motor switch on the power strip.
See image below.
FYI: The first 6 ditches indicate the date the belt conveyor was finished.

There can be several reasons why the belt is not running.

  • Check the rear roller - it may be blocked.
  • Check how tight the belt is. If it is too tight or too loose, it will not run.

Yes, you can. You can purchase both glue and friction tape at your local SoRoTo Dealership.

Beware that the feeder serves as protection for the back roller.  
Did you know? You can get a larger feeder for loading with a wheelbarrow or a mini-excavator. 

REMOVING THE FEEDER

How to remove the feeder from your SoRoTo® Belt Conveyor.

See image below:

CHANGING THE V-BELT

How to change the v-belt on your SoRoTo® CMS Cement Mixer

See the schema below:

We cooperate with rental companies, dealerships and distributors all over the world. Try and ask your local building supply or contact us under the tab CONTACT.

Contact your local SoRoTo Dealership and ask them what to do. The protocol is different from country to country and sometimes also from dealership to dealership.

If you have any questions, our sales and production teams are always here to help.
You can also find useful information in the manual supplied with your machine — and if it’s been misplaced, a digital version is available to Download Here

Looking for a spare part? You’ll find all item numbers and details in the spare parts lists on our website

FIND A DEALER

Wherever you’re based, we’ll help connect you with the right supplier or guide you on the best way to get a SoRoTo machine — making sure you get what you need, wherever the job takes you.

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